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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. However, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.